Monday, March 10, 2014

Jaipur - Planes, Trains, Automobiles, Camels and Elephants

We arrived late Friday night on our flight from Hyderabad.   One of B's coworkers is from Jaipur so not only gave us advice but had his father pick us up at the airport and take us to the hotel.  Now since B and the kids are heading back from Delhi after this little sight seeing tour we are lugging 3 monster suitcases with us. This was the lesser of two evils. The other would have been fly to Delhi, find a safe place to stash the luggage then travel all the way to Jaipur and back to Delhi.   So we arrive late Friday night with our "luggage" and meet our ride.  We wait with our cart as taxis and other spacious vehicles buzz by having loaded up.  Then our ride pulls up in an Hundai Santro (small hatch back) .  Doable with 5 passengers. A stretch with our luggage.   One suitcase goes in the trunk with a backpack, 2 more in the back seat with B and the kids as I sit in the front and put in some quality time with the dashboard.  I think my knee still has an imprint of the logo stamped in the glovebox.  

We fit and arrived safe at our hotel after what appeared to be a short drive on the wrong side of the highway.   No it was not the fact that they drive on the opposite side of the road here.  Headlights pointing at you typically indicates somebody is in the wrong.  But don't fret, a few blasts on the horn makes even the most unthinkable US driving move acceptable.   I would learn the next day this "short cut" saves driving done the road for a u-turn.  

The hotel (Chokhi Dhani) was a traditional Rajasthani village and a great experience.  After finally getting the kids down at about 11 pm we split a beer (ok I drank a beer and B watched but saying we split it sounds less tragic).  We did get our first glimpse at the olympics because the hotel had a station that carried the days highlights for a short period.  Then we went to bed.   Breakfast at the hotel included traditional indian items (idli, chutneys, etc) and western (omlettes).   Here are some pictures from around the hotel.  





The next day brought a trip to the Amber palace again in the small car but this time minus the luggage which made a difference.  The drive to the palace was louder than we are used to even by Indian standards.   The horn on this little Hyundai Santro has been thoroughly  tested and passed with flying colours.  

The Amber palace was fantastic and is set into the hillsides with fortified walls running up and down the ridge-lines and connecting to Jaipur fort which we did not see since it took us a good four hours to explore Amber.   

Column top pieces red sandstone and white marble





 

After Amber we returned to the Chokhi Dhani hotel and had a snack to bide our time until the authentic village opened.  We made one stop at Jal Mahal, a palace in the middle of a lake. Then we were welcomed back to the hotel with a blessing. 






About 5:30 we headed over to the village.  It is kind of a mix of a fair and a bazaar.  We took an elephant ride, a camel drawn and ox drawn cart rides and  played a few carnival games.  One involved throwing real darts which were with no question handed over to T at "almost 4" as he would tell you seems like a bad idea to me.  Well at least it did after he releases the first one arching it past his sisters head and into the back wall.  The kid has an arm. After a bit more separation he fired off 2 more and I tossed the rest.   K hit the board a few times but nobody got a bullseye.  Not sure if that would have mattered as there was not a cheesy toy in any stall   I guess my 20 rupees purchased the thrill of throwing darts at an oversized board.

Getting on the elephant.

The elephant we rode (in that silver box on top)
Tight rope walking while walking in the wheel and wearing a large high pile of stuff on his head. 
Cart rides
Camel cart ride.
Part of the artisan market. 
After a little more walking around we felt a few drops of rain, something we just don't think of planning for after 2 months in Hyderabad where we didn't see a drop.  So we make our way over to the restaurant where we are to have our traditional Ragistani meal just ducking under cover as the sky's open in a downpour.  We worked our way to the front of the line which was for Indian standards very orderly.  As we are second form the front K informs us this would be a good time for her to use the washroom and holding it was not an option.  I pop up to the doorman to see if the kids can jump the line to use the washroom.   He said he will send us to the upgraded one with an umbrella.   Sounds good to me so we jump down out of line to the guy holding a patio umbrella.   Now thinking about the consequences of this trek was not something B or I considered as I believe we both were suffering from what some parents would relate to as toilet tunnel vision.   Getting ones child to the toilet come hell or high water.  Which is what came next.  High water.  The grounds has taken on so much water that I think I spotted one of the elephants trunks looking out of a puddle.  After the fog cleared and we realized we were walking to the upgraded facilities via ankle deep water we were committed. We had to march on.   We made it to the upgraded facilities soaked from outside in. We then understood we were being sent to the upgraded facilities not only for the toilet but also the dinner.   This dinner was I believe the same food as the other location but instead of the "traditional" floor style seating this one had chairs and it looked like a mover leisurely pace.   A bit disappointing for the kids but for me not so much.  The food was good and we were inside.  After dinner the rain was less so we headed back to the room.  Splashing all the way. 

the downpour coming off the roof in front of us.




City palace and a not so professional driver on a not so closed course.  
The next day after attempting to dry the only appropriate footwear in the room and setting them out in the sun for a while we packed up the room and checked out.  The plan for the day was to visit the city palace and head to the railway station that was a few km away.   We loaded up the car (see above for packing arrangements of 5 people, 4 backpacks and 3 large suitcases) and headed to the city palace.   This was a really neat place to explore.  It is still used as a royal residence by the queen, prince and princess.  Several displays are in the palace so you can see weaponry, clothing and the throne room.  

As we were exploring one of the courtyards we hear K's name being called.  Well considering that the only people that should know her name are us, we look up to see B's parents who just happen to be in Jaipur on the same two days we are. What are the chances in a city of 3 million, we end up in the same little courtyard with them at the same time.  After a quick visit and some suggestions from their tour guide for our stay in Agra, and where not to eat (on the train or near the train station) we parted.  
Us and B's parents, chance meeting in Jaipur
The queen, prince and princess residence is the building in the background.








Detail above one of the entries to the palace courtyard.

Detail above one of the entries to the palace courtyard.

When we got back to the car there were many cows in the area. 

This is not our car, but two cars down from ours.

We decided we would explore the palace a little more and stumbled across the cafe.  We decided we would eat at the cafe and waited for a table.  After a bite to eat we head out as we had about an hour to catch the train and with our luggage and not knowing how easy it would be to find the train car we wanted to play it safe.  I knew it was about 15 min drive as I had mapped it on google maps. 


We loaded into car and headed off.   After a little while the drive who spoke no English seemed to be going the wrong way.   At this point we thought he maybe heading back to the hotel so we reiterated we needed to go to the train  station so we.   He pulled out a train ticket he had to show he knew we were going to the train.  At this point he continued to drive in the wrong direction and drive more quickly using the horn almost continually.   We realized as I continued to tell him to go to the train that he also had a train to catch and that he needed to get his bag.  So I was tracking this speedy, bumpy journey via gps and by the time we picked up his bag we were now 30 min from the train station and would arrive at a predicted 5:00 pm the time our train would pull in leaving 10 min later.  The next 30 min drive was chaotic and horn filled as we sped to the station in the little car packed to the gills past cows, autos and trucks.    We arrived with no time to spare, B's co-workers father and uncle met us there and helped us get to the train with the help of a porter.

After swapping out seating with a few people who were nice enough to get the entire family in one row we settled in and were off to Agra.  

And then half an hour in to the train trip T (3 yr old) threw up!  He spent the rest of the 4 hour trip in one of B's shirts but felt much better. 



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